Off Across the Pond

Well I'm off, tomorrow, to London first then Prague for 11 days. I'll be tasting shepherd's pie with a pint, sausage and potatoes with a Budvar...and so on. I'll have plenty of dining tales to share soon!

El Macho Burrito

It's gotten to the point we drive to El Burrito Express once a week. And we would probably go more often but look at the size of the burrito being created in this photo. HUGE. It weighs about 5 lbs. and you have to carry it like a baby. No joke, they use 2 giant tortillas overlapping! While the El Macho contains 2 kinds of meat and the equivalent of 4 normal size meals, I can't resist the carnitas burrito expresso (indeed, that is the name). It's an already fantastically flavorful combination of salty pork, guacamole, and seasoned rice and beans smothered in enchilada sauce and more cheese and guacamole. Can you blame me for craving this daily?

Blasted Broccoli

Inspired by writing about Black Bottle's blasted broccoli, I made another attempt to recreate it in my oven and actually succeeded! Apparently the trick is to leave the florets in the oven long after they're smoking up the room. After chopping up a large stalk into bite size pieces, spread evenly on a baking sheet, then drizzle generously with olive oil (don't be shy, you need enough oil to really get sizzling in the broiler). Grind up some fresh pepper and sprinkle along with lots of sea salt. Place in a hot broiler for 5 minutes, pull out and toss the broccoli to even out the oil. Then broil for another 10 minutes and do it with the window open for the smoke! You'll think you're burning the florets to ash but they'll be perfectly blasted.

Ace Wasabi Sushi

It's an age-old tale: move to city, search for best sushi, try new sushi restaurant at every opportunity, discuss favorite "so far" at social gatherings, continue quest. I think searching for the best sushi is almost more exciting than actually finding it. And so we continue to look for our favorite spot in the neighborhood. John discovered a sushi restaurant between Chestnut and Lombard on Pierce. (As a side note, this block is a GEM—we took note of at least 4 more restaurants we can't wait to come back and enjoy!)

Ace Wasabi was slightly ambitious on their sushi rolls, something I'm typically skeptical of, yet my exhaustion on a Thursday night and John's eagerness to order let me sit back and be impressed by unknown selections. The crab in each roll was superb; sweet, robust, even lobster-like in its sizable chunks. I was delighted by a roll of BBQ eel, crab, and macadamia nuts, creating a crunchy and sweet treat. The funniest thing that happened all night was when we arrived to hear someone calling bingo numbers. Both of us stopped on a dime and hesitated, knowing we couldn't bear the thought of a game going on during dinner, but the hostess let us know it was over. She seemed apologetic. We were relieved. The music all evening was fantastic, from The Knife to Steve Miller Band. We may need to keep looking for the best sushi restaurant, but I would gladly head back for a casual, satisfying meal.

Yank Sing Deem Sum

Yank Sing is famous in San Francisco. But for good reason: it is the best dim sum in the city. Sherry first introduced me, a Seattle native explaining with a lot of patience with my reluctance that I would be floored. And I was. It's no surprise then, that #97 on 7x7's 100 is their sesame balls, gooey rice balls filled with sweet bean paste and coated in sweet sesame seeds. My perhaps stereotypical favorite are the baked pork dumplings, sticky sweet on top with egg glaze, filled with BBQ pork so bacon-like with sweet onion sauce. I try to be adventurous but typically go for anything dumpling-style. Pork and shrimp, mushroom and chicken, even the soup dumplings served on a spoon having been injected with broth and meat. I'm always impressed by the engineering of these dumplings, because they can somehow soak up the thin sweet n sour sauce then retain it between the sauce bowl and my mouth!

Tapas Paradise

Laiola opened up on Chestnut about 2 years ago and it's been a great spot for sitting at the bar with girlfriends and savoring happy hour in the sun. A gorgeous copper bar mirrors the copper ceiling in a warm, inviting, modern space. The menu is like Black Bottle's, which might be why I'm so drawn to it: small plates are separated into sub categories of savory and sweet, though the categorization is a mystery beyond the meats, seafood and veggies. 3-4 plates is usually good between 2 people, at least when you're supplementing with tinto de veranos or sangria! The sangria is advertised as fruit salsa with your choice of wine color and it really hits the spot in the summer.

In Spain, Museo de Jamon taught me the marvel of well-cured pork. Comparing prosciuttos really gives you a taste for why paying a little more for a slice is worth it. Laiola usually has at least one smoked ham on the menu and the one we ordered last week was so flavorful. I love to put a piece on my tongue and let the saltiness fade into the smokiness into the hearty, sweet meat. Even the ribbons of fat tasted like herbs and was sweet like milk. We also went for crispy cauliflower (yes, another nod to Black Bottle's blasted broccoli) which really was pizza-oven blasted with heat to get crispy. Green onions and olive oil added some garlic spiciness and grassy smoothness to the typically bland vegetable. If I had a pizza oven, I would make blasted broccoli or cauliflower every night, it's such a great texture, add a little olive oil, garlic...I may need to attempt this tonight.

My favorite (well, until this recent visit) item on Laoila's menu are the chickpea croquetas. Served like a Jenga puzzle, these fried, spicy, custard-like fingers are dipped in kalamata olive spread. This is such a salty, savory indulgence. To round us out, we went for the pork meatballs with heirloom tomato remoulade. I can't place the spice that was overpowering these. The meat was ground so fine that when I took a bite, the meatball fell apart in my mouth and it seemed like the flavor was everywhere all the way to my ears.

But the coup de gras of the meal (and maybe the month) was the pan con chocolate (#31 on 7x7's 100). UNREAL. A rolled up slice of chocolate ganache sat in a pool of olive oil topped with giant chunks of sea salt. You then take scoops of the ganache and spread them on toasted baguette, also generously doused in olive oil. This is the single best dessert I've had this year. If not ever. The chocolate is cooled to maintain its shape, but the baguette is warm from being toasted...It's taking the phenomenon of uber-savory sea salt with too-sweet dulce de leche to a totally new level. Salt and chocolate. Cool and warm. Smooth and crispy. If you can't tell from this blog that texture is crucial in my appreciation of food, then....um....well, it is. Pan con chocolate. Do it.

Another fun thing about this meal was sitting at the bar next to a chef who was interviewing to be the head chef at Laiola. To hear it from his side, he was hoping they would consider him but he was keeping his options open. To watch it unfold, the cooks and maitre d' and bartenders wanted to seriously impress this guy. While we spent 20 minutes narrowing the menu down to 4 items and selecting drinks, I want to say he tried nearly every dish on the menu, tasting style. It was amazing to watch and impressive that he could take down each plate paired with a different Spanish wine that someone different presented each time. At the bar, you face the kitchen, so you think there can't be more than 7 people dancing around each other between the narrow kitchen and bar, but they all got an opportunity to approach our barmate Michael. I sincerely hope he takes the job there, I can't wait to go back and see him in action.

Vending Machine

Yes, those are hot dog vending machines. AT THE AIRPORT. I didn't try one but I realized later that I must! Hence the categorization.

Best of Bodrum

Dining on the Mediterranean is always heavenly, made possible by perhaps all the same qualities that make an excellent Mediterranean mezze: sun and breeze—flavors like citrus, mint, charcoal; simple and casual—olive-oil grilled fish, fresh round vegetables; with a view of the water—textures like yogurt, sea salt, soft bread. Hence the reason for actually being on the Mediterranean while enjoying—in my opinion—the best food in the world. It can't be matched!

Bodrum was an oasis among oases. Landing at the airstrip 30 minutes from our hotel, dry sandy suburbs tumbled into a sparkling Aegean sea, clusters of green brush massing the closer you got to the water. But pulling up to the Kempinski on Barbaros Bay, glittering white sand met crystal clear turquoise water and lush greenery. Infinity pools, mock-mosque sticking out of the shallow water, day beds with palm trees and umbrellas = instant beachside calm.

Now the food. You knew it was going to be over the top at a place like this, but not how ridiculous the buffet would be. An entire room made for a buffet was filled with breakfast options each morning, so much food that it overflowed into the sitting room outside. Yogurts of every flavor and tartness, fruit compotes in giant bowls ranged from fresh pineapple in sugar water to sour cherries in liqueur to dried apricots in honey. Bland cheeses, made specifically for hot weather, spicy and thinly sliced meats, even smoked salmon were tempting. But I was mostly impressed with the range of fruits and fruit compotes, something different to try every morning. There's nothing better than tart cherries and sweet raisins topping cool, plain yogurt, smoother than anything I've tasted and somehow a hybrid of the thick Greek-style yogurts I find at home and the thin too-sweet variety. The perfect start for a day at the beach.

We ventured to try the buffet one evening at the hotel, a cop out to going into town being 40 minutes in a hot car ride away. It was equally impressive in size and breadth of options, but you can only pile so much on your plate when that pool, reminding you of your bathing suit and the body that needs to fit in it tomorrow, are so nearby! A giant swordfish hung in the center of the buffet was offered as one fresh fish option. You could slice a piece of your choosing and they'd cook it however you like.

On a more adventurous evening, we made our way into town with dozens of restaurant recommendations. The downtown area existed along two swooping beaches on either side of a medieval castle. On one side, boats filled a harbor lined by restaurants. On the other side, a pebbly beach provided about 20 feet of public space between the row of restaurants and bay. We picked a restaurant on the harbor side, specializing in, surprisingly, Italian food, tapas and...sushi. The owner was from California (typical) and loved the idea of mixing cuisines that both focus so much on fresh ingredients. We started with a California roll, stuffed mushroom tapas, and my main was deliciously recently caught fruitti de mare over angel hair pasta.

Our last night in Bodrum, we chose a Bavarian-styled restaurant on the water of the beach side of town overlooking the swoop of sand and the castle in the distance. (Interestingly, the marker at the other end of the beach was also what looked like a giant, ancient castle, but was in fact a dance club that could accommodate thousands.) We ate some of our favorite mezze to savor our last night in Turkey, including their version of mint and yogurt dip, cacik, baba ghannouj, marinated calamari and spicy tomato paste. The tomato paste was a perfect compliment to my simple chicken skewer. I could live on mezze. Though I'm not sure it's becuase of the type of Mediterranean food it tends to be, or the fact that you get to try lots of little bites of lots of flavors. All best enjoyed with a chilled glass of Raki, of course.

University Veal

University Veal, so named for the recipe that followed my mom to college and took on alternative properties as my dad made GMM's dish his own. Now, it's evolved into the following on my dinner table:

• 1 lb. veal cutlets, cut or pounded thin
• 1/2 cup mushrooms, sliced
• 1/2 large yellow onion, chopped
• 6 strips bacon
• 14 oz. can cream of mushroom soup

Slice bacon into tiny pieces and begin to fry in a large skillet. When bacon is translucent, but still soft, spoon as much of the grease out of the pan as possible. Add onion and mushroom, sautee until soft and translucent. Add cream of mushroom soup (there's a fancy, roux-based way to do this but low-sodium Campbell's is just as good and guaranteed creamy) then simmer until sauce is lightly boiling.

In a baking pan, arrange the veal cutlets and sprikle freshly ground pepper and sea salt. Cover the cutlets in mushroom sauce and bake at 350º for 30 minutes or until the sauce becomes golden. Voila, University Veal.

I paired this main dish with a cauliflower carrot casserole. Veggies are steamed with another half onion, diced, and a peeled garlic clove. Once cooked, smash the vegetables with a tablespoon of butter, arrange in a casserole dish, cover in cracked pepper and breadcrumbs, then bake for 30 minutes in the oven with the veal.

Gatip Thai

Bored by overpriced, over-garnished curries on Union Street, we ventured 4 blocks to Lombard to check out Gatip, a cute little Thai restaurant. Spicy coconut broth soup and green curry basil chicken made the "trip" well worthwhile! On our last visit, Panang curry, green curry, sweet and spicy eggplant and BBQ beef filled the table with a Thai feast. I appreciate that every dish was chock full of fresh basil, my favorite part of any Thai dish but typically limited to one sprig as garnish. They're not kidding around with the basil at Gatip. Also, dig the traditional rice serving vessel.

Speaking of Pizza

Upper Crust in Boston is some of the best I've had this side of the Atlantic. From Italy, I mean. This day's special, tomato spinach was loaded up with garlic, an irresistible combination. Thin crust charred from the pizza oven in giant, fold-over slices with what had to be real, whole milk mozzarella...mmmmm. This is my new can't miss in Boston.

Comparing Pizzas

Like hamburgers, John has acquired a refined taste for pizza. I imagine we've tried half the pizza delivery joints in the city, though remained faithful to eXtreme on Union for the last 2 years. Discovering the Yard Sale with, well, you can probably imagine, everything but the kitchen sink. Once we figured out to replace the italian sausage with garlic, the search for our favorite pizza was put to bed.

This week, to show my appreciation for John's infinite patience with my around the clock work hours, I took him to a new pizza place he's been interested in trying. Little Star Pizza, in Western Edition (and one on Valencia just south of Market) doesn't take reservations but makes you feel right at home with a cool beer. We were starving 45 minutes later when we were shown a cozy table against the wall, all dark wood in the candle lit space. Already having had plenty of time to peruse the menu, we promptly ordered caprese salad and garlic bread to kick things off. The tomatos were sweet and firm, perfectly paired with the soft and peppery fresh mozzarella and basil. Garlic bread was something else. A loaf of soft white bread with thick but soft crust arrived, sliced, next to a dipping bowl of homemade mayonnaise and 2 roasted garlic heads. The idea was to spread a few cloves on the bread then slather on a coating of buttery mayonnaise. It was so good we finished off the entire loaf and started spreading garlic on the salad croutons!

We selected a deep-dish classic pizza with salame, sausage, onions and green peppers, adding black olives because it seemed like they should be included. I don't usually care for deep-dish but this was great. The crust was oily and crispy. Thin, like I like it, but tall to pack in the inch and a half of toppings. I'm such a sucker for great pizza sauce. I don't think I've ever had it layered on top of pizza toppings, but it was a knockout. Highly recommended for both atmosphere and great pizza.

So which is better? As you can see, I ate a slice of each for breakfast Saturday morning (yes, we had Xtreme Thursday night and Little Star Friday night—I have no explanation). In the light of day, there's something to be said for gourmet pizza from Little Star, the whole experience of dining there should be repeated. But on any given Thursday night, I'll still opt for a garlic-laden Yard Sale.

Spaetzle at Suppenküche

#29 on 7x7's 100: Spaetzle at Suppenküche was enticing enough to make it a Saturday night. So I knew what one side needed to be, but oh to choose a dish! When I saw suckling pig on the menu I couldn't resist. The pork was oh so tender and succulent yet crisp and salty like peking duck. I've heard how young pig can be uber-moist and flavorful. This was no exception. Of course it didn't hurt that the plate of spaetzle, red cabbage and pork was swimming in deliciously savory gravy.